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Siduri Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir 2011
Siduri Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir 2011
wa90
  BN#514801
Category: Red Wine
Varietal:Pinot Noir
Region: United States » Oregon » Willamette Valley
Producer: Siduri

Price:$29.99

SKU28535

Wine Advocate

Less than 20% of their fruit from this vintage made the cut for Siduri's 2011 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, that being primarily from Pommard and Coury selection vines at Arbre Vert Vineyard and to a small extent Beran Vineyard - an apparent tribute to the resilience and adaptability in the Willamette of the region's most old-fashioned clonal variants. Around one-third of that fruit fermented whole-cluster. (Intriguingly, there is around 2% Pinot Gris amid the Arbre Vert vines, raising the possibility that co-fermentation plays some role.) Exceedingly tart-edged plum and cherry are aromatically tinged with juniper and cedar, and invigoratingly mingled with rhubarb, fresh ginger and white pepper. There is more buffering to the brightness here than in the corresponding generic Siduri bottling, whose finished alcohol is close to the same 13% but whose fruit came in at substantially lower brix. The pit piquancy that along with incisive spiciness and tart fruit skins extends the finish, proves stimulating and not overdone. This ought to be fascinating to follow through at least 2017. (Interestingly, from barrel the 2012 Arbre Vert - which will be bottled separately - possessed similarly spicy incisiveness and brightness of fruit, but in a richly-ripe context.)

I tasted the two 2011 bottlings from Adam and Diana Lee - for more about whose work in Oregon see my issue 202 report - as well as their promising 2012s (including no fewer than four anticipated vineyard-designates) from barrel. Adam Lee was frank about the substantial roles he assigned, in rendering successful 2011s, to chaptalization, saignee, acidification (to compensate for a low tartaric-to-malic ratio) and enzymatic additions (principally to compensate for low yeast-nutrient levels). He acknowledges that early crop-thinning (to one cluster per shoot) had a tendency to make already large berries even larger but opines that given how the season turned-out, thinning early was still the best way. He thinks the Chehalem Mountains' Laurelwood soils in which several of his vineyard sources are vested were disadvantaged in 2011 by their water-retentiveness.

Score: 90. —David Schildknecht, October 2013.

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ALL PRICING, DESCRIPTIONS, IMAGES, VINTAGES, RATINGS AND AVAILABILITY ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANYTIME. ALL SIZES ARE 750ML UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.