Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 2018
|Region||Italy, Piedmont, Roero|
Wine Review Online
Arneis is a grape variety that almost disappeared. It is grown in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy, home of the Nebbiolo grape that blesses us with Barolo and Barbaresco. How fitting that two Barolo producers, Bruno Giacosa and Vietti’s Alfredo Curado saw the grape’s virtues. Ian d’Agata notes in his Native Wine Grapes of Italy that Arneis and Nebbiolo have historical ties. In the past it was called Nebbiolo Bianco. It was sometimes added to Barolo to soften the wine’s acidity. It was also interplanted with to lure birds away from the later ripening and more valuable Nebbiolo. Because Arneis is not a high acid grape, and it can lose the acidity it has without warning overnight, it requires dedication and vigilance to harvest at exactly the right time, and for many vintners may not be worth the effort. Fortunately, Bruno’s daughter, Bruna shares her late father’s dedication to this grape. It is fermented in stainless steel tanks, sees no oak or malolactic fermentation, to focus on the fruit flavors, freshness and balance. Floral, ripe peach aromas introduce round ripe flavors of peach, citrus and tropical fruits balanced with citrusy acidity. It is quite enjoyable as an aperitif or with a pasta with lemon butter sauce.
The 2018 Roero Arneis is a fragrant and linear white wine with plenty of spicy lemon, tangerine and crushed stone aromas. The 2017 vintage of this wine (from a hotter vintage) showed more tropical fruit, whereas this cooler vintage offers more citrus and mineral notes. Bruna Giacosa tells me that she prefers 2017 over this 2018; however, it's all a matter of personal choice. I am partial to this vintage because of those tangy flavors and the wine's precisely linear quality. However, this wine is set to flesh out and gain in volume after the summer because Arneis starts to show its best results in September following the harvest.
Ripe peach and melon notes are underlined by lemon accents and zingy acidity in this succulent white. Balanced, featuring a light bitterness and a white pepper finish. Drink now. 11,400 cases made, 3,200 cases imported.
All sizes are 750ml unless otherwise stated.
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