I am tempted to proclaim that this Hermitage tastes like those old-school classics made back in the day, but the fact is, I wasn’t even alive then, much less tasting and judging wines. My assessment of this bottle is therefore limited to my understanding of traditional production methods in the northern Rhône and my experience tasting wines made via such methods. Barruol’s La Pierrelle checks all the boxes: the old clone of Syrah (Sérine) in a steep, rocky site; natural vinification with stems; élevage in used barrels; unfiltered bottling. Having had the good fortune to try some mature Hermitages from storied growers, I can nonetheless predict that this one will age similarly—majestically bold and yet somehow ethereal, developing savory, smoky, meaty, and floral nuances over decades in bottle.

—Anthony Lynch