Sigalas Assyrtiko Athiri 2016
Wine AdvocateThe 2016 Aa is the typical 75/25 blend of Assyrtiko and Athiri, unoaked and coming in at 13.5% alcohol. The Assyrtiko is pressed, while the Athiri is free run juice. Many would refer to this bottling as Sigalas' second label because it's less expensive. It's also a blend rather than a monovarietal. As such, it never has quite the concentration of its big brother, also reviewed this issue. So, it's sort of a second label, but it's hard to overlook how fine it is in its own right. Even in years past, it often exceeded expectations and aged better than I thought it would. Increasingly, as time goes on, this blend shows better and better. Plus, it always has one important advantage over the more brooding monovarietal: the blend is livelier and more aromatic, no doubt thanks to the Athiri. This year it is right on track. Showing fine concentration for a blend and this level, it gradually opens up-it was shut pretty tight when I first saw it-and delivers the flavor and sprightly feel it does so well. I suspect more than a few wineries would be happy to have this as their top wine. I don't have them side by side, to be sure, but this certainly seems like a worthy competitor to the 2015. At the moment, I would give the 2015 the slight nod, but when this finally unwinds, it may be a draw and this may be entitled to an uptick. Like so much of what Sigalas does, this might actually be better next spring. It should hold well, perhaps better than anticipated, but take that in stages.
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