This is crisp, clean fun, with frisky acidity and a whole lot of citrus. Aromas of lemon, spearmint, beeswax and yeast join forces to give the impression of a lemon poppy seed cupcake. The flavors of lemon zest, olive oil, juniper berries and lemon verbena go on for a good long while.

The 2022 Pinot Gris opens with a savory burst of wild herbs and spices complicating crushed apples. This begins with a saline tinge, giving way to crisp orchard fruits over a core of brisk acidity. It finishes fresh and tactile, leaving hints of sour melon to fade.