A beautifully fine mousse indicates the class of this finely crafted wine. It has some weight, flavors of green apples, with hints of fresh apricots. There is extreme freshness here, the style dry but rich. This bottling tastes young and would be worth aging six months.

Toasty nose. Well-mannered with a creamy mousse, an impressive light texture, bready flavours and light mineral notes on the finish.

A fresh, clean champagne with sliced apple, pear and lots of mineral character. Full to medium body, crisp acidity and a long finish. Lots of citrus undertones. Bright and steely. This is mostly 2009, with the remainder from reserve wines. Four years on the lees. This is very focused. 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir.

Brut Souverain is almost equal parts chardonnay and pinot noir, with five percent pinot meunier; reserve wines account for 30 percent of the blend, enriching it with bready notes and almond-like touches of maturity. The richness gives it a sweet impression, integrated into the tangy notes of cider and mint, then lasting on chalky savor. This would make a rich aperitif, or a partner to thinly sliced roast veal. Best Buy