A. Christmann Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2017
A pungent nose offers zesty orange peel and sweaty salinity allied to intimations of fresh peach and apple that then lusciously emerge on an unexpectedly tender - almost creamy - yet brightly juicy, salt-tinged palate. The succulent but refreshing finish introduces a mouthwateringly sweet-saline suggestion of raw scallop. What's more, it offers a lovely impression of lift. (The label reads "12% alcohol.") This plays in a league rarely inhabited by a generic Gutsriesling, and not in my recollection by Christmann's. Incidentally, this and its Pinot Blanc counterpart are the sole Christmann bottlings under screwcap.
Intense mineral and light herbal notes open this Riesling to the core of lemon oil, kiwifruit and clementine flavors. Notes of white pepper and hints of cream linger on the well-knit finish. Drink now through 2023. 3,750 cases made, 100 cases imported.