Inland from the coast, Montilla-Moriles does not feel the influence of the sea as greatly as Jerez. In the warmer climate, the wines tend to be more unctuous and ripe. In this case, the pedro ximénez has been vinified under flor, which gives it an inescapably salty flavor that overpowers the candied apricot and prune fruit. In the end, it’s a dry, delicious sherry for jamón serrano