Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett 2010
Wine AdvocateThe Koehler-Ruprecht's 2010 Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett features high-toned distilled fruit allusions including mirabelle and kirsch, accompanied by smoky black tea and hints of mothball. In short this displays the sort of wacky esters frequently encountered at this address (more often in its ripest dry Rieslings) that drive some self-styled purists and friends of reductive winemaking crazy. There is also a bit of sheer yeastiness conveying fresh complexity. Juicy and energetically interactive on the palate, this finishes with very discreetly integrated sweetness, and with vintage-typical citric (lime and grapefruit) brightness driving its whirl of high-toned flavors. There are going to be partisans of this wine who think I under-rated it and there will, as already intimated, be some who scratch their heads. I suspect it will be wise to enjoy this over the next couple of years and then evaluate its further potential.