Pale, green-tinged gold. Heady citrus and orchard fruit aromas, along with a sexy floral overtone and a hint of peach nectar that gains strength as the wine opens up. Silky in texture and seamless on the palate, offering juicy orange, pear, white peach and honey flavors that show excellent depth as well as energy. The floral note repeats strongly on the long, penetrating finish, which leaves behind a sweet butter note.

One-third of the 2017 Condrieu sees new oak, while the rest goes into stainless steel. The wine remains very floral and fresh, with apricot and melon flavors joined by hints of white pepper and celery seed. Full-bodied, plump and succulent, it ends on a faintly bitter note that brings focus and length to the finish. Drink it young.

Leading off with the two Condrieu releases, the 2017 Condrieu offers an exotic, fresh, vibrant style that's going to gain weight with time in bottle. Terrific notes of pineapple, green citrus, and a hint of minerality all flow to a medium-bodied, balanced beauty that I'd be happy to own in quantity. For a hot, hot vintage, the estate preserved freshness and purity.

Whiffs of sun-kissed grain or hay are restrained on the nose, but the palate of this voluminous Viognier bursts of peach, honeysuckle and apricot. It's lavish and textured, with a long, warming finish marked by layers of saffron and candle wax.