Floral nose, with a hint of soft spice and nectarine; palate is dry but not austere, with stone fruit and a fine mineral tension. Cerebral, satisfying and impressively wrought.

Based in the Chardonnay region of the Côte des Blancs, it's no surprise that this producer has a dominance of that grape in its blend. The wine has great minerality as well as tight acidity and delicious citrus flavors. It's a dry, finely balanced wine to drink now.

Light yellow. Spicy lemon and lime aromas are complicated by ginger and talc, with a suave floral quality gaining strength in the glass. Fresh and energetic, offering racy citrus and pear flavors that are strikingly pure and mineral-driven. One of the brightest and most lithe examples of this cuvee that I've had in recent years and reminiscent of the elegant versions I remember from the late 1980s and early 1990s.

Subtle and lacy in texture, with a smoky, minerally underpinning and flavors of ripe pear, lemon meringue and pickled ginger. Drink now through 2018. 6,800 cases imported.

Pillowy and charming, the latest rendition of Delamotte's NV Brut offers up attractive aromas of orchard fruit, fresh bread and citrus oil. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and elegant, with a pretty pinpoint mousse and lively balancing acids, it's drinking well out of the gates but will also develop gracefully for a few years in the cellar.