More yellow than Lustau's manzanilla, Jarana is a lovely, proper fino with a nose of iodine, lemon blossom and popcorn. The palate is staunch and doesn't back down; the high-toned nut and citrus flavors seem classic and elevated. And the finish is intense and frames everything in walnut oil and toast.

The NV Fino Jarana, aged in Jerez, has a beautiful, classical Fino nose of chalk, dry hay, dry straw (esparto) and nuts, while the palate is very dry, intense and pungent, long, with a pleasant bitter finish. It's both intense and fine. Drink 2013-2014.

Light and racy, with quinine, lemon pith and chamomile notes zipping along, this has a little juiciness to match the dryness. Drink now. 2,600 cases made.